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Actually made up of three islands, although only one is inhabited, Koufonisia is increasingly a destination for Greeks, including many who camp on the amazing beaches here during the summer, inspiring a laid-back 1960s vibe. The locals take it in their stride, and many of the 400 or so still fish for a living.
What to do Take a boat ride to the other two islands. Kato Koufonisi has the best beaches, and dramatic Keros was where many of the finest early Cycladic statuettes were discovered – now to be viewed in Athens, these inspired artists such as Picasso and Brancusi.
Where to stay Those who like living in the round will love Windmill Villa (€295, breakfast not included, sleeps 4), an expertly renovated windmill in an idyllic location. It’s a little cramped on the inside, but its charm is hard to resist. If your budget doesn’t stretch to that, Michalis Little Houses near the port has simple two- and three-bed rooms with bay views from €75.
Where to eat Given that Mixalios Grill House (on Facebook) doubles up as the island’s butcher, it is unsurprising that meat is the order of the day. Try the goat.


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