National Buffalo Wing Festival founder Drew Cerza has made it his mission to promote his hometown’s iconic dish. Here are what he deems the best wings in town.
Born and raised in the city of Buffalo, New York, Drew Cerza is a passionate ambassador for his hometown’s eponymous dish: the Buffalo wing.
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Drew Cerza, Buffalo, NY’s “Wing King”, is the founder of the National Buffalo Wing Festival, and co-creator of the Buffalo Wing Trail; a self-guided tour through 14 storied wing joints. A tireless ambassador for Buffalo wings, he has been featured on Food Network and the Travel Channel. Whether he’s judging competitions, promoting local eateries or handing out hot wings in a chicken suit, Cerza has one mission: to give wings the global spotlight they deserve.
“Fiery, crisp and delicious, the Buffalo wing is an American culinary icon,” says Cerza, better known as the “Wing King”. “It’s more than bar food; it’s the centrepiece of festivals, Super Bowl parties and food challenges, showcasing our love of bold flavour and communal eating.”
Buffalo wings – chicken (not buffalo) wings doused in a mixture of Frank’s Red Hot sauce and melted butter – were created serendipitously at the city’s Anchor Bar in the 1960s, where the tangy, spicy combination, served with celery sticks and blue cheese dressing, was an instant hit. “In time, the bar’s late-night improvisation became a game-day staple – and a global phenomenon,” says Cerza.
While spicy chicken wings are now found on bar and restaurant menus all over the world, the traditional Buffalo version with crispy skin, a juicy centre and cayenne-spiked sauce still reigns supreme. What’s the secret to their trademark texture? The wings must be fresh – never frozen – and dry before saucing, Cerza explains: “after ensuring total wing coverage, you need to use fresh cooking oil; that ensures that the moisture’s locked in and the [skin] is crisp.”
There’s a sense of pilgrimage in tasting wings where they originated, and over time, the city has built a wing culture. In 2002, Cerza founded the Buffalo Wing Festival which further helped cement the city’s status as the US’ wing capital. The party returns this Labor Day weekend (30-31 August) to celebrate Buffalo’s signature snack. “I’ve seen strangers become friends over a basket of wings,” says Cerza.
Here are Cerza’s favourite wings in Buffalo. Getting sucked into local debates – blue cheese vs ranch; drumsticks versus wingettes – is optional. By now, the story has become local lore: one night in 1964, Teressa Bellissimo, Anchor Bar’s co-owner, whipped up a snack for her son and his friends. “She grabbed a bag of chicken wings, [which back then were] considered scraps for stock, deep-fried them and tossed them in a flavouring that combined butter and Frank’s Red Hot Sauce,” says Cerza. “Anchor Bar is where it all began and you can’t do better than pay homage to the place where the original recipe was born.”
Despite its hallowed status, the bar is unpretentious with memorabilia-lined walls. And the wings themselves are crispy on the outside, lightly coated in sauce. “The bar still follows the time-tested formula, with each plate served along a side of celery and tangy blue cheese dressing,” Cerza says. “Order the traditional medium [spiced] and taste where it all started.”
The Anchor Bar, which has expanded to seven other states, has always prided itself for its Italian-American offerings, so Cerza recommends also trying their spicy garlic Parmesan or honey garlic wings. “You can taste these authentic Italian flavours melding with the Buffalo wing flair!”
Duff’s Famous Wings is where Buffalo indulges its spice lovers. “Duff’s always raises the heat as their take on traditional wings,” says Cerza. “If you order medium, you get medium-hot; order hot, you get extra hot. This is probably the best local take. They have a ‘death sauce’ that I have tried. I ate three wings and paid for it… it was painful but oddly enough still had flavour.”
The no-frills spot thrives on consistency, drawing generations of locals with its classic wing, Cerza says. The energy is loud and unapologetic, with families, students and after-work regulars all tucking in elbow-to-elbow.
“They also have a char-BBQ wing that is drenched in BBQ sauce and finished on the grill for a savoury, smoky flavour. Don’t forget the lemon-pepper wings, two flavours that work together like peanut butter and jelly. This one is a dry rub,” he says.
Cerza notes that there always been a friendly rivalry between Duff’s and Anchor Bar over who serves the best wings. His suggestion? Don’t leave without trying both.
At Nine-Eleven Tavern, wings are a family legacy served with pride. Cook Mark Gress arranges the wings like petals around a central bowl of blue cheese, sauce pooled just enough to tempt without drowning. “The plating is pure poetry; appealing to the eye and the tongue,” Cerza says.
This small tavern, which has been serving wings since 1981, offers a choice of mild, medium and hot, served with the classic blue cheese or ranch dressing. Tucking into the wings amid the wood-panelled walls, neon beer signs and quiet neighbourhood setting makes it feel like you’re eating in someone’s home.
“The tavern is now run by Gress’ daughter, Paige, who still uses his original recipe,” Cerza says. “They are delectable and the key ingredient is simplicity. That is balanced by the heat; it’s ideal to dip your wings in blue cheese dressing to add some additional flavour.” Housed in a 19th-Century brick building in the Allentown neighbourhood, Gabriel’s Gate teems with character.
Celebrate Buffalo’s finest
As Buffalo wing culture evolves, Frank’s Red Hot Sauce and butter are often set aside for a dizzying range of sauces and marinades, from garlicky Parmesan and Korean gochujang to maple bacon and Caribbean jerk. “Regional flavours have crept in as chefs become more creative,” says Cerza. The National Buffalo Wing Festival is the perfect place to taste unusual and creative wing flavours such as Maple Bacon Jalapeno and Spicy Loganberry.
“There’s even a Peanut Butter and Jelly variant and a French Toast wing,” Cerza adds. His favourite? “Cajun Honey Butter Barbeque. It combines four fantastic flavours.”
The vintage tavern interior, with a polished wood bar, leaded windows and exposed beams, pairs perfectly with the hearty, communal platters of wings.
“The bar has a great atmosphere and is the kind of place where you can nurse a pint while chatting with strangers or claim a booth for a long evening with friends,” Cerza says. The wings are meaty and perfectly sauced, their smoky aroma making them ideal for sharing over conversation, he adds; noting that the lively tavern itself is ideal for business lunches, date nights and guys’ nights out.
Gabriel’s Gate is known for its consistency. “The wings are basic, nothing fancy, but always have the perfect blend of hot sauce and butter,” says Cerza. “The BBQ wings are bursting with an intense smoky flavour.”
Mulberry Italian Ristorante may be known for its Italian-American classics, but the restaurant’s wings are a hidden treasure: crisp-skinned and generously coated in rich sauces, from buttery garlic to spice.
“The spicy Calabrian honey wings offer a sweet-heat flavour. This involves a honey infusion with Calabrian peppers – the perfect balance between spice and sweetness. No need for a dipping sauce for this one,” Cerza says. “The Tre White’s Spicy BBQ wings, named after Tre White of the Buffalo Bills, deliver a smoky BBQ taste with a spicy twist and a little twang.” The softly lit dining room, lined with framed photographs and warm red walls, creates a sense of intimacy. “It’s the sort of place where you can split a plate of wings, then linger over pasta and wine, making the night stretch out just a little longer,” Cerza says.
Source: BBC
1. Best for the OG wing: Anchor Bar
2. Best for extra-hot wings: Duff’s Famous Wings
3. Best generational recipe: Nine-Eleven Tavern
4. Best old-school bar: Gabriel’s Gate
5. Best under-the-radar wing: Mulberry Italian Ristorante
