This bucolic region of northern France is forever associated with memorials of the first world war, but it has a lot more to offer visitors, from unspoilt countryside to quaint coastal resorts that even few French people know about. The Somme is named for its river, with an immense estuary where it empties into the Channel. The Baie de Somme, as it is known, was where William the Conqueror gathered his army before setting off to fight the English at Hastings, and today these unique wetlands offer a host of ecological and wildlife holiday activities.
Affordable accommodation ranges from camping and glamping to chic B&Bs and friendly family-run hotels. Eating out is also a revelation, with the freshest seafood, speciality charcuterie and cheeses straight from producers.
BAIE DE SOMME AND THE COAST
What to see and do
Bay of the Somme
The vast Somme estuary is an ever-changing landscape as the tides ebb and flow. A three-hour trek across the bay with a qualified guide (€15 adult, €7 child) is a highlight of any trip. Locals head out alone foraging, shrimping and duck hunting, but the tides can be treacherous if you explore tout seul.
Other options include high-tide canoe trips (adult €35, child €20, mabaiedesomme.fr), horse rides across the sand (€45pp, henson.fr), or a more relaxing vintage steam train tour (€14.30/€10.70 return, cfbs.eu) all the way around the bay from Saint-Valery to Le Crotoy. The picturesque port of Saint-Valery has grand seafront villas once rented out by luminaries inlcuding Victor Hugo, Edgar Degas and Alfred Sisley.
Parc du Marquenterre
To the north of the bay lie miles of sandy beaches and dunes, and the 200-hectare Marquenterre park, where some 300 species of migrating birds stop over or nest. Nature lovers can rent binoculars and set off on a 7km hike, taking in 12 hides with a guide at each to talk about the birds.
• parcdumarquenterre.fr
Coastal road trip
The wild coast road running south from the bay as far as Le Tréport passes some wonderfully kitsch seaside towns where little seems to have changed since the end of the 19th century. Cayeux has a long pebble beach lined with brightly painted beach huts. The faded opulence of Ault’s 19th-century villas is overshadowed by the natural beauty of its towering white cliffs, and seafront mansions at Mers-les-Bains have been wonderfully renovated.
Where to eat
Auberge de la Marine, Le Crotoy
The formal decor of the Marine belies the dazzling cuisine of Pascal Lefebvre. Splash out €44 for his six-course tasting menu made with products harvested around the bay: line-fished red mullet or John Dory; cockles and whelks; wild samphire and oreilles de cochon (purslane) from low-tide sand flats. Pork smoked over pine cones is served with beer-braised endives.
• +33 3 22 27 92 44, aubergedelamarine.com
Chés Troés Piots Coéchons, Woignarue
In a quiet village a few kilometres from the coast, the Three Little Pigs restaurant is a brilliant foodie discovery – though come with an appetite as portions can be huge. Presided over by genial chef Frank Galand, the menu ranges from succulent braised hock of ham to lamb roasted with thyme and limeflower honey or an incredible array of homemade charcuterie. The tavern doubles as the village shop and Woignarue’s unofficial social centre. Unforgettable.
• Three-course lunch €17, mains €13-21, +33 3 22 60 54 84 ches3piotscoechons.fr
Le Saint Pierre, Ault
Emma and David, the young owners of this fabulously retro seaside restaurant, have left every detail of the 1960s and 70s decor intact, but surprise diners with a menu of fresh seasonal dishes at very affordable prices. Start with mackerel marinated in white wine and vinegar (€5.90), followed by a steaming bowl of mussels with crunchy frites (€8.90) or the fish of the day – plaice, sole, pollack – straight from the fishing boats of nearby Le Tréport (€12-14).
• +33 9 51 70 29 61, brasserie-ault.com
Where to drink
La Flibustière, Ault
The wonderfully eccentric, craft beer-loving Gerald Pailloux has converted the front room of his cosy seaside home into La Flibustière, a mariners’ pub whose terrace overlooks Ault’s dramatic white chalk cliffs. Don’t miss a large glass of Page 24, an IPA brewed in the neighbouring Pas de Calais département. Telephone first (+33 3 60 26 91 22) to make sure Gerald has decided to open that day. He also has three B&B rooms with incredible sea views, from €70 a night.
• flibustiere-nelson.blogspot.co.uk
Hermann, Saint-Valery
This cheese store to die for also has a gourmet choice of smoked hams, saucissons and patés, plus a lengthy wine list, with prices the same in the bar as to take away. This is the magic formula of Hermann Etard’s cave à manger, where an abundant selection of cheese and charcuterie for two costs €15, with fine wines inning atstarting at €9 a bottle
• hermann-store.fr
La Buvette de la plage, Saint-Valery
An idyllic spot for a sunset aperitif, this casual bar sits right at the end of Saint-Valery’s promenade, with tables and deck chairs right on the sand, overlooking the bay.
Read more at theguardian.com
