World surfing champion Courtney Conlogue has navigated the globe’s gnarliest surf spots. Here are her Los Angeles picks, from party waves at Topanga Beach to sunsets at El Porto.
California’s laid-back surf scene is as synonymous with Los Angeles as the Hollywood Sign itself, but the origins of the sport actually date to ancient Polynesia, where cave paintings found on the islands from the 12th Century show human figures riding waves on proto surf boards. However, surfing as it’s known today was introduced to America in 1907, when a Hawaiian native named George Freeth held popular wave-riding demonstrations on Huntington Beach, just south of the city of Angels.
In the decades since, the health benefits of spending time in blue spaces have repositioned surfing as a wellness trend in its own right. Nature-seeking fitness enthusiasts now flock to the competing surf schools that line the 20 beaches stretching along 25 miles of LA County’s sun-loving coastline. Lucky visitors are spoilt for choice but knowing exactly where to roll on your wetsuit and hang 10 can be a challenge if you’re new to the area.
We spoke to pro surfer Courtney Conlogue, ranked the second-best female surfer globally at the World Surf League Championships in 2015 and 2016, to help us find the best surfing beaches in LA County.
“LA is a surfer’s paradise,” says Conlogue, who grew up in nearby Orange County and learned the fundamentals of surfing from her father when she was just four years old. “The county has every type of wave you might be looking for, whether it’s a soft beginner’s beach break, point breaks with their long peelers or powerful reef breaks that churn out circular barrel waves. With the Pacific Coast Highway running adjacent to the beaches, part of the fun of surfing here is hunting down the perfect place to spontaneously pull up and dive in.”
Here are Conlogue’s top recommendations for your LA surf trip itinerary.
1. Best way to soak up the LA surf scene: Surfrider Beach
Overlooked by the iconic 119-year-old Malibu Pier, Surfrider Beach is considered to have one of the most consistent wave zones in all of southern California, so the surf here is excellent year-round.
Travel tip:
Safety is an important consideration for any surfer. “The ocean is extremely powerful,” says Conlogue. “Before putting my board in the water, I consider the tides, currents, water temperature, swell size and general weather report.”
Conlogue suggests checking the forecast before you head out (pro tip: the less wind, the better). “Apps like Windy and Surfline are useful for first-time surfers, as there are live cameras on the beach that give real-time feedback on the wind, buoys and swell to help surfers understand the conditions.”
The reward for fighting the crowds at this popular, scenic spot is the opportunity to surf waves so magical they were deemed the first-ever World Surfing Reserve. “Here, the water curls in from the right-hand side,” says Conlogue, “creating a unique three-point break (three zones with different wave sizes) that can take you on a smooth ride in good conditions.”
This iconic beach tends to attract seasoned surfers, but there are waves to accommodate everyone. “Surfers of all levels can catch a wave here. And there are some great beginner surf schools right on the beach where you can learn to pop up [stand on the board] in just one morning,” says Conlogue. “I often describe Surfrider as the best place to get a taste of the ‘SoCal’ lifestyle, with longboarders, bunny hoppers [surfers who ‘hop’ over wave sections] and the occasional high-performance surfer all hanging out in the lineup together.”
You can spend an entire day wiping out in the waves with plenty of options for refuelling all around. “Check out Café Marmalade for lunch and Aviator Nation Dreamland for drinks,” says Conlogue. With brunch spots and cocktail bars lining the seafront, Surfrider is also well situated if you’re simply looking to people-watch while basking in LA’s dreamy tangerine sunsets.
2. Best for quieter, creative surfing: Topanga Beach
If you don’t fancy elbowing your way through the wall-to-wall lineup at Surfrider, Topanga is a quieter beach with a similarly excellent right-hand point break that offers several difficulty levels for surfers.
The unique shape of the bay, where a strong swell wraps around a creek and peels out towards the shore, brings lots of opportunities for creative surfing. “There are fun party waves that break and crash onto the soft sand shores, or more complex peelers that crash over cobblestone and reef,” says Conlogue. “Some of my favourite surfing memories are at Topanga, where the waves can get to 6-8ft with the perfect swell – it’s just magic when that happens.”
If the conditions aren’t right for getting in the water, Topanga is still worth a visit, says Conlogue, “as it is easily one of the prettiest beaches in Malibu and an ideal location for a family beach day”. With more than a mile of gloriously golden ocean frontage, there’s plenty of space to throw down a towel and take in the surf scene with the classic LA hills behind you.
3. Best for Instagrammable natural beauty: Leo Carillo Beach
If you’ve watched Grease, Pirates of the Caribbean or the high-action Keanu Reeves movie Point Break, you’ll recognise Leo Carillo Beach. Named after the American actor and conservationist, this popular movie set location is a wild and rugged spot with rocky crags, towering cliffs and tide pools teeming with tiny crabs, starfish and mussels.
“Leo is a mellow beach with a fine cobblestone point and a fun right-hander to surf,” says Conlogue. “It has a more remote feeling than Malibu and Topanga, and while the waves are slow and steady, it can be a little more finicky to ride when it breaks, so you’ll need to be a confident surfer to head out here.”
With 1.5 miles of perfect beach to explore on foot, the surrounding state park is catnip for nature lovers, who can hop from exploring rock arches and coastal caves to drinking in the salt-whipped ocean vistas while hiking the Malibu Mountains. It also happens to be a great camping beach, with space to pitch a tent a stone’s throw from the sand in ground shaded by Sycamore trees.
“The whole LA coastline is very ecologically diverse,” says Conlogue. “It’s not unusual to see dolphins and seals while you’re sitting on your board, taking a breather from the waves. At times, I’ve even surfed with a pod of whales breaching right next to me.”
4. Best for beginner surfers: El Porto Beach
Part of northernmost Manhattan Beach, El Porto is one of LA’s most-surfed waves for good reason. “The ocean here forms a beach break so it’s better for beginners who can find their feet in smaller and less-intimidating waves,” says Conlogue.
A stone’s throw from Los Angeles International Airport, El Porto is often crowded with local surfers due to its consistent waves with above-average quality and height.
Travel tip:
Conlogue says that the best time to visit LA’s beaches is in spring and summer when the weather is warm and the visibility is good. “Sunrise and sunset are when you’ll catch many of the regular surfers heading to the beach, as the crowds are smaller and the wind is mostly offshore,” she says.
“This popular beach is also lined with a sand bottom, so it can be a little easier on your body when you fall off your board into the ocean,” says Conlogue. “A lot of newcomers can find the classic LA coastline cobblestones a little nerve-wracking, so you’ll find plenty of fellow first-time surfers here.”
Overlooked by the industrial Chevron oil refinery, this wide stretch of surf is by no means the prettiest beach on the list. But what El Porto lacks in Instagrammable outcrops, it more than makes up for in “fun party waves”, where “several surfers drop into the same wave at the same time”, says Conlogue.
Still, if you prefer to keep your feet on solid ground, the beach has a scenic boardwalk cycle path, as well as volleyball nets for some friendly competition. “California evenings are really beautiful, so stick around to take in the beautiful sunset at El Porto,” says Conlogue.
5. Best for post-surf people-watching: Venice Beach
From street performers to bodybuilders, the grungy Venice boardwalk is an iconic LA attraction. “There are definitely better waves to surf in LA, but it remains a must-visit for people who want to experience the city’s counterculture,” says Conlogue.
Back when modern-day surfing was evolving and the waves weren’t ideal, surfers took to the pavements on four wheels, inventing skateboarding in the process. Venice’s 2009 skate park isn’t technically part of surf history, but Conlogue says that its palm-fringed location has made it “one of the most iconic bowls in the world” and a great place if you’re looking to practise your footwork and enjoy some culture. “The Venice boardwalk is full of life and is a great place to grab an iced coffee and watch skaters and rollerbladers go by. It overlooks the world-famous Muscle Beach, which is a famous place for fitness lovers,” she says. This outdoor gym, where shirtless fitness buffs strut their stuff, has been around since the 1950s and is said to be the birthplace of bodybuilding.
Like many things in LA, Conlogue says that this neighbourhood is best enjoyed with no strict schedule, drifting from laid-back surf plans to cocktails. “Make sure to visit Urth Caffé for a post-surf coffee, or Great White, which is a locals spot for dinner and drinks.”
Source: BBC
