Leros has everything going for it. It is big enough to explore and there are plenty of whitewashed villages and enchanting coves. Fortunately, it has escaped the large-scale development of some islands, and the resorts are low key and charming.
What to do The island’s main town of Platanos is just 10 minutes’ walk above the port, and is well worth exploring, with its backstreets peppered with large mansions, now often in disrepair. Above the town is a row of picturesque windmills and an imposing fortress.
Where to stay The long, sandy beach and blue waters of Alinda make one of the island’s most appealing mini-resorts. A few minutes’ walk from the beach is Archontiko Angelou (€50), a gorgeously restored 19th-century villa, which is like stepping back in time.
Where to eat The cove of Dio Liskaria is tucked away at the north end of Alinda, and is the best place to swim on the island. Luckily the food at Vareladiko is pretty good too.