This dramatic island does have good beaches, but is better known for its hiking and diving (French film The Big Blue was shot here).
What to do The extraordinary whitewashed monastery of Hozoviotissa, which dates back to the 11th century, clings to the cliffs of the dramatic south coast. It is well worth a stiff climb up many stairs to reach it (but if you’re not modestly dressed the monks will send you straight back down).
Where to stay Decorated in classic white and blue, Emprostiada (from €50) is a comfortable guesthouse at the edge of the island’s main town (inevitably named Hora). Out of season, the rooms are a real bargain.
Where to eat The green tables and chairs of Tranzistoraki fill a little side-alley in the main town. The cute setting is matched by some interesting local food and a good selection of meze.